Scotland is renowned for its delightful seafood shacks, offering some of the best fresh catches. From langoustines purchased by Ullapool harbour to the simple yet exquisite lobster bisque from the Oyster Shed on Skye, these venues deliver top-of-the-line flavors without unnecessary embellishments. I’ve nearly missed ferries due to the legendary hot smoked salmon sandwiches on the scenic Oban pier and I am now planning a visit to Fort William just for the pints and prawns at the newly opened Blas na Mara, located next to the ferry terminal.

Dune, located in St Andrews, has been on my radar since its opening last spring. This innovative bar, created by chef Dean Banks, serves as the companion venue to his fine-dining restaurant Haar, just a five-minute walk away. Upon its launch, Banks promised “weird and wonderful” drinks and dishes inspired by Scotland’s coastal seafood shacks. For those on the go, a hatch on North Street provides a £12 lobster roll, and patrons can elevate their take-out experience with a half-bottle of champagne for £30.

On this occasion, we chose to dine indoors. After a morning at the Cellardyke tidal pool, we were ushered past a vibrant turquoise neon sign and into a cozy downstairs bar. Ascending to a charming gantry, we were greeted by rattan lampshades beneath a skylight that allowed the sunlight of Fife to illuminate the New York-style loft. A table of young Australians were enjoying burgers on the balcony, while a petite terrace caught the afternoon sun, a promising spot for summer visits. Nearby, a wedding at St Salvator’s Chapel added a festive ambiance to the occasion.

Chef Dean Banks, hailing from Arbroath, made his mark after training with Rick Stein in Padstow and reaching the finals of Masterchef: The Professionals before establishing his first restaurant, Haar. During the pandemic, he adapted by offering luxury home delivery services, a feature that continues, with Kalani wagyu burgers now available as DIY kits for a limited time.

As we perused the menu, it was evident that Banks possesses a passion for seafood and creative presentations. We opted for a mix of traditional and trendy dishes, perfectly encapsulating St Andrews’ culinary vibe. The zesty tequila palomas arrived simultaneously with a selection of fresh oysters. The mignonette sauce was remarkable, featuring a sharp vinegar and sweet shallots blend that stood out, while a fresh mix of cucumber and jalapeño accompanied the oysters with a refreshing taste.

A shout erupted from my three-year-old as the octopus hot dog arrived, showcasing a tentacle spiraled out from a butter-soaked brioche bun. This quirky dish has been a staple since the establishment’s opening, successfully blending flavors in a way that surpasses mere novelty; the combination of sweet, smoky barbecue seasoning and tandoori ketchup elevated the octopus’s tenderness, thanks to its three-hour braising process.

However, my sea trout dish fell short in flavor; while the Loch Etive fillet was delicate, the smoked haddock tortellini and accompanying bisque lacked depth. Conversely, my friend’s lobster crumpet was a standout at £35, with delicious briny flavors harmonizing in a sauce of grapefruit, lemon, and lime, drenched in brown butter.

My son, unfazed, declared it “the best” kids’ fish and chips he’d ever had, featuring a light, crispy batter encasing perfectly cooked fish, alongside crunchy wedges of skin-on potatoes and a dollop of pureed peas for dipping. Unfortunately, my dessert choice faltered: a miso caramel tart with a questionable texture. My friend, however, triumphed with her limoncello cake—an exquisite lemon drizzle that truly shone, bathed in a citrus syrup.

Dune successfully occupies the enticing space between casual bar snacks and fine dining. The luxurious yet relaxed offerings, like their lobster roll, represent the essence of gourmet beach picnic vibes that capture the spirit of St Andrews.